Big wave Surfers are a special breed of human being, able to keep a lid on emotions and control the fear that being chased by gigantic waves inherently brings. These Surfers are as brave as they come and endure some horrific wipeouts, beatings and hold downs. One Surfer who stands head and shoulders above the pack in terms of bravery is Greg Long, who clinically drowned during one session at Cortes Bank and has driven himself to get back on his board and ride big waves once again.
VICE Sports have this week released a video of Greg talking about his two year comeback and reflecting on his non fatal drowning, including some disturbing footage of Greg being revived by his rescue team following his wipeout. Greg also reveals quite candidly the brave face he put on big wave Surfing and his return to the water within three weeks of the accident and how although he looked very much in control, inside his emotions were in turmoil.
The video of Greg’s fateful wipeout and the shots of the monster waves he has returned to riding are testament to the journey he has undertaken and the strength of character of the man. Not many people would paddle out in waves of that size, let alone after experiencing firsthand the sheer brutality of one when it all goes wrong. The frank and sincere interview is embedded below and for more sport stories sign up to VICE Sports youtube channel here. What do you think of Greg Long’s honest reflection to his wipeout and do you think you would have the mental strength to paddle back out after an experience like his?